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The
night when voodoo awakes: sabbath of wizards and zombies
The
powers of darkness are perfect at hiding. Outwardly, Les Coteaux
in Tobago’s mountainous center doesn’t seem any different from other
villages. And yet it’s the stronghold of Voodoo. The wizards, zombies,
she-devils and vampires living there fear nothing more than the light of
the public. They step out of darkness only once a year – for just one
ghostly night...
By Bernhard Grdseloff |
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The
Witches’ Sabbath is the most mysterious event of the heritage festival
taking place in Tobago each year in July. For two weeks running, there’s
a different event organized by an other village each day to revive the
old customs of the island. While the other places celebrate wedding
rites, African music or the local art of cooking, the inhabitants of Les
Coteaux go for Voodoo.
"Our
village is regarded as the center of ‘Obeah’, which is the
local term for witchcraft", reveals Sylvia Lewis, who produces the
ghostly show on the side. She gets the ideas for the annual production
on site. "Strange things happen here", she says. Along with
ordinary zombies, there’s a number of other undead that haunt the
place: diablesses – demonic women that come out to seduce men,
duens – non-baptized infants that have turned into baby devils,
and succoyants, which are vampires whizzing through the air as
fire balls.
Of
course these creatures of hell have little in common with the type of
Voodoo used for domestic purposes. "Obeah is normally
applied to everyday matters, such as passing an exam or getting rid of a
rival", says Lewis. "Whether it’s fiction or truth – that’s
up to you." |
Voodoo
as a tradition: ghostly show in Tobago |
